Cartografías: Bairro Novo Amazonas

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En Galicia, a rosa dos ventos apunta a miúdo ao Brasil, xa sexa por aventuras marítimas, migratorias ou sentimentais, configurando millares de cartografías íntimas. Por exemplo, a do bairro Novo Amazonas, cuxa cartografía física o sitúa nun equidistante punto entre os núcleos urbanos de Belo Horizonte e Betim, formando parte da área metropolitana da grande BH. Lonxe queda da imaxe arquetípica da maleza amazónica, do paradisíaco litoral ou dos grandes cafetais.

Confinado entre a planta de coches da FIAT, un campo de fútbol, a estrada BR-381 e a linha do ferrocarril, configura unha accidentada orografía de morros que suben e baixan. Aínda que Minas Gerais dá as costas ao mar 600 kms, desde o alto, pódense encontrar horizontes interesantes. Só é preciso querer ollar.

Hai un estoupido de vida no bairro. Os altofalantes anuncian choios, garotos a voar papagaios e coches que transitan a tupida malla de estradas da periferia metropolitana. Impugna, non obstante, esta lei do asfalto, unha sorte de tropeiros, a cabalo ou en bicicleta, como unha reminiscencia das facendas.

Ruxe a vida no campo de fútbol, onde a molecada disputa peladinhas sen máis complemento que un esférico e dous rectángulos. O futebol en estado puro, cando o coiro nu do pé golpea con forza o coiro da bola.

O tren de mercadorías pasa moi de vez en cando e silente, de vagar, ao ritmo das pedaladas en bicicleta que circulan en paralelo. O tren, ese animal mitolóxico do XIX, que Brasil se saltou, transitando á modernidade aérea do XX.

Axita o tránsito o minúsculo enclave comercial, coas súas lojas, bares de açaí e salóns de beleza, en pequenos locais, nos baixos de edificacións de xeometría variable. Utilizados tamén para acoller a diversidade de igrexas, como unha metonimia do multiplicado credo que emerxe nas Américas, e que  engraxa a socialización da fin de semana, como contrapunto ao ocio laico da capital.

Con todo, a semiótica da arquitectura reserva un lugar privilexiado aínda para o templo católico, no alto do bairro. Parece recoller aquela máxima de Bradomín sobre a maxestuosidade caída das grandes catedrais e do carlismo. Agrúpanse neste punto álxido, a parada do ônibus e unha lanchonete. Cun boticario e un ultramarinos xa teriamos unha estampa entre galega e tropical. A concentración de tránsito, camiño do centro, está decorado con cartaces, de tinta sobre tea branca, anunciando lotes inmobiliarios, coches de saldo, operacións de estética e milagres e conxuros, accesibles a todos os petos.

O Bairro Novo Amazonas confirma e refuta a un tempo a imaxe arquetípica do Brasil. Hoxe viaxamos por toda a xeografía, a través do infinito mapa dixital, advertindo contornos e xeografías, tamén as humanas. Mesmo Iolanda Zúñiga escribiu unha novela, Periferia, retratando –e ben- a grande urbe do país, sen tela nunca pisado.

Pero as pegadas que un vai deixando no Bairro Novo Amazonas ensinan que o Brasil, máis que ser cartografiado, merece ser vivido.

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